HIRAM GREEN
LUSTRE

2019

PERFUMER
Hiram Green

Bulgarian Rose
Citrus notes
frankincense
orris

At the time of writing it’s been about 2,5 years since I tried Lustre and I can only go on my initial feelings. But since I have reviews up for all Hiram Green fragrances so far, I wanted to complete it. My original thoughts were as follows:

The rose here is complex. The scent is bright, especially in the opening, but it has depth and a mature quality to it. To me, it’s as if the rose itself isn’t bright, but the supporting notes create that feeling. There’s a sharp, acidic, oily edge, but the rose at the center is almost indolic and there’s a metallic tinge as well.

Somehow all those facets are contained well enough to not make the overall composition too harsh or challenging. The acidity from the citrus is very prominent and it takes quite a while for the rose to really overpower it. All the while there’s a bit of green to it, that could even be considered vegetal.

The texture remains more liquid or oily; there is a powdery element, but not overwhelming (and not overly musky in the drydown). There’s not a lot of warmth to it either, so this is suitable to wear year round. Lustre isn’t the easiest rose to wear and I’d say more suitable for a matured taste, but lovely nonetheless.

This comes closest to Frederic Malle Une Rose to me, or at least the rose note. Lustre isn’t as opulent as Une Rose, it’s more modern.