ATELIER DES ORS
LUNE FELINE EDP

2015

PERFUMER
Marie Salamagne

Cardamom
Cinnamon
Pink Pepper

Ambergris
Styrax
Cedarwood

Vanilla
Peru Balsam
Musk

Lune Feline is likely the most popular fragrance from the brand (although the newer Pink Me Up was having a strong moment as well around the time I reviewed it). I’ve tried it several times throughout the years, but somehow never reviewed it. I got a new discovery set, so I figured it was time to share my thoughts on this one.

Granted, it’s never been my favorite and I’m always a bit surprised at how popular it is, given that it’s not the easiest to pull off. It has a lovely vanilla core and a smoky edge that wears as a sensual, seductive type of cloud. I can definitely see this being enjoyable and sexy on other people, but I wouldn’t wear this casually myself.

It is in my opinion, quite harsh for such an allround and well-loved fragrance. The opening is smothered in cardamom and pepper, with the cardamom being almost palpable; when smelled up close it can be a bit much. I have this experience often with cardamom though, so that’s a matter of personal taste.

The smokiness varies from moment to moment for me. One moment it is more a charred wood, but there are times where it feels a bit rubbery or leathery as well. It has that abrasive shoe polish leathery-wood vibe that I find for example in Matiere Premiere Oud Seven or Maison Violet Abime.

The star of the show for me, and the element that moves it away from the aforementioned fragrances, is the vanilla. It pulls this in a sweeter, easier to wear direction eventually.

As mentioned above, I’m sure that I would appreciate this in the air when someone else is wearing it, but it won’t make the ranks of my favorite Atelier Des Ors.