Xerjoff
LOUIS XV – 1722
2024
grapefruit
plum
saffron
liquor
aromatic notes
cocoa
coffee
lavender
rose
hazelnut
cashmeran
incense
leather
sandalwood
white musk
I’m always happy when I can present a review for something new that (at the time of writing) has been available exclusively for PR purposes. In this case, Louis XV by Xerjoff was presented and gifted at TFWA Cannes. I didn’t attend, but I did get my hands on a sample to give you my non-influenced thoughts.
Louis XV is very different from what I expected when looking at the notes (keeping in mind that official notes have not been shared by Xerjoff and assuming that these are correct). I had trouble figuring out what type of fragrance I was smelling. And I can’t stress this enough; if you’re going into it blindly or blind-buying it, looking for a gourmand scent with the listed notes of cocoa, coffee & hazelnut, you will be disappointed. If you’re not, you will find a classy and well-done fragrance here.
Straight from the opening Louis XV opens citrussy and aromatic. There are some fruits, but it’s all understated and with a green, aromatic edge. It leans moderately traditionally masculine to my nose. It doesn’t smell boozy to me, but it has that watery smoothness. After the brighter opening, it warms up and it gets spicier. Also a bit sweeter, but never gourmand.
This isn’t Golden Dallah‘s coffee, Symphonium‘s chocolate, but also not even a semi-gourmand like Starlight. I’ve worn Louis XV twice now and I don’t get any cocoa or coffee from it. On my second wearing, I did get some nuttiness, or at least I pictured it when I went looking for it, but it’s not a praline, sweetened hazelnut, it’s more like finding nuts in a forest. It will be interesting to see if other people have a different experience in this regards.
It’s non-descript woody, aromatic, soft and smooth. Part of what makes this fragrance hard to decipher, is its performance. It seems to sit close to skin and performance isn’t its strong suit. Which I personally don’t mind at all and it helps in making this a classy, mature, understated and somewhat abstract fragrance. I think this is very solid, but not among Xerjoff’s top; from the ones that I’ve reviewed I can name at least 15-20 Xerjoffs that I’d pick over Louis XV off the top of my head.
