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      L’Iris de Fath EDP (2023) • JACQUES FATH🔺, ScentAdvice

      JACQUES FATH
      L’Iris de Fath EDP

      2023

      PERFUMER
      Patrice Revillard


      L’Iris de Fath EDP (2023) • JACQUES FATH🔺, ScentAdvice


      Violet absolute
      bergamot
      peach
      orris
      jasmine absolute
      turkish rose absolute
      violet
      lilac
      carnation
      ylang-ylang
      bourbon vetiver
      benzoin
      tonka bean
      musk

      ‘At the heart of all attentions, the Iris with its powdery and woody violet flower facets, is produced with Firmenich’s Orriscience technology, allowing to optimize the development process of the Irone (flavor ingredient) in the Rhizomes. This know-how makes it possible to produce by steam distillation an Iris “butter” or iris at a level of Irone ranging from 8% up to the absolute at a level of Irone at 75%. Thus, it gets as close as possible to the Rhizome’s representation.’ L’Iris de Fath, the rebirth of a myth. Jacques Fath’s Iris Gris is known as one of the greatest perfumes if not the greatest, unequalled since its creation. The balanced duo of Iris and Peach reflects perfumer Vincent Roubert’s exceptional know-how. Launched in 1947, it disappeared the same year as Fath in 1954. Often copied and certainly never equaled, it remains unique and timeless. It was unthinkable that this heritage, remained prisoner of the limbo of the past. Under the supervision of Creative Director Rania Naim, Parfums Jacques Fath launched an international competition of perfumers, in order to reproduce as faithfully as possible this exceptional fragrance. The myth is reborn, thanks to two young talents unanimously chosen by a committee of experts: Patrice Revillard, Perfumer and Yohan Cervi, Creative Director of Maelström. Like a chrysalis turning into a butterfly, it is now known as: L’IRIS de FATH.’ – Jacques Fath

      L’Iris de Fath EDP (2023) • JACQUES FATH🔺, ScentAdvice

      L’Iris de Fath has big shoes to fill, as a reworking of the original Iris Gris (1947). Unfortunately, I’ve not been able yet to try the original composition, so I can’t make any comparisons (and aging will probably make those quite useless to begin with). Instead, I can tell you about this new rendition in it’s L’Eau De Parfum concentration.

      In general, I’d say L’Iris de Fath is spicier and more masculine leaning than I’d expected.

      Starting straight away with a rather refreshing iris. Very strong carrot essence here. A bit rooty, a bit sweet, but more like fresh carrot perhaps than tinned or cooked sweeter carrot. Bright for an iris at first and clean. Cleaner than Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist or Xerjoff Irisss to my nose. Less pasty and acidic than Masque Milano L’Attesa.

      I’m almost completely missing the peach here, or even most of the bergamot. It’s fresh, but not in that sense and I was expecting a lot more peach. The same goes for the florals, I’m not really getting much on first wear and the iris itself doesn’t come across floral either.

      The iris goes more rooty and woody as it progresses. As said, there’s a side to L’Iris de Fath that I wasn’t really expecting. A spicy edge. Very sweet as well, but I picture nutmeg, clove, maybe even tobacco. None of this matches the notes listed, but it reminds me of the lactonic-spicy-sweet-iris-woody style from Anomalia Narcotic Bohemic or Maison Sybarite Bed Of Roses quite a lot. Almost gourmand even.

      Beautiful execution and great fragrance overall. For my liking, a fragrance bearing this name could’ve had even less distractions from the actual iris. I love this for what it is, but I’d be remiss not to mention that I had slightly higher  expectations from it. I would rather easily go for Irisss or L’Attesa over L’Iris de Fath for an iris-centric.


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