GUERLAIN
L’HEURE BLEUE PARFUM

1912

PERFUMER
Jacques Guerlain

aniseed
bergamot

carnation
neroli

violet
vanilla
benzoin
iris
tonka bean

L’Heure Bleue is up there as one of the great classics from Guerlain. However, I personally never enjoyed it when I smelled it in stores and with the first time sampling. I wasn’t sold on it. This review was edited 2-3 years later with another wear and it’s starting to grow on me

I acquired a vintage miniature of the parfum to give L’Heure Bleue a proper chance. The opening is not as ‘high pitched’ as in other versions that I’ve smelled of it, although still very floral. To my nose, this smells mostly like a green iris, but there’s also a sweetness that doesn’t get along with the green floral vibe. I assume the aging has made it significantly sweeter, as it has done with my vintage Mitsouko and others, but with those, I love it, with L’Heure Bleue, I’m not sure that it works.

Tonka, leaning far into the almond side, very powdery, almost palpable, but constantly surrounded by a stemmy, at times almost aromatic, green cloud. The almonds have an ever so slightly roasted quality to them. After about 1-2 hours, the savory powder starts to get on my bad side. Initially it has enough citrussy facets, but once those fade, I start losing interest.

There’s a hint of babypowder for sure as well, although as mentioned, not as high pitched in this older version. There’s still a bit of that civet-like, white wine/vinegar quality to the opening, but it’s subtle.

As someone who loves powdery fragrances, iris, as well as gourmands, I’m surprised to say that L’Heure Bleue doesn’t work me. Maybe in another 2-3 years, I will fully appreciate it.