GUERLAIN
L’HEURE BLEUE PARFUM

1912

PERFUMER
Jacques Guerlain

aniseed
bergamot

carnation
neroli

violet
vanilla
benzoin
iris
tonka bean

L’Heure Bleue is up there as one of the great classics from Guerlain. However, I personally never enjoyed it when I smelled it in stores and with this sampling, I think I’ve confirmed for the short term future that I’m not a fan.

I acquired a vintage miniature of the parfum to give L’Heure Bleue a proper chance for the review. The opening is not as ‘high pitched’ as in other versions that I’ve smelled of it, although still very floral.

To my nose, this smells mostly like a green iris, but there’s also a sweetness that in my humble opinion, doesn’t get along with the green floral vibe at all.

Tonka, leaning far into the almond side, very powdery, almost palpable, but constantly surrounded by a stemmy, at times almost aromatic, green cloud. The almonds have an ever so slightly roasted quality to them. After about 1-2 hours, the savory powder starts to get on my bad side.

There’s a hint of babypowder for sure as well, although as mentioned, not as high pitched this time around for me. I believe I found L’Heure Bleue almost civet-ish acidic when I first smelled it, but I don’t get that with this vintage Parfum.

This is probably considered blasphemy by some, but I don’t find it all that interesting, nor do I find it elegant or sophisticated smelling. As someone who loves powdery fragrances, iris and gourmands, I’m surprised to say that L’Heure Bleue doesn’t work for me at all.