LEVENT
LES IMPERIALE

2021

Iris
Patchouli
Floral notes
Balsamic notes
Indian oud
Cambodian oud

This is one of Levent’s attars, so 100% perfume oil, no alcohol. All of their original 5 attars contain natural ouds. I read somewhere that the oud oils have been aged for a 10 years minimum, but I think that information has since been removed, so don’t take my word for They use a mix of Cambodian, Malaysian, Cambodian, Indian and Trat ouds with different variations in their line-up. Either way, these are more contemporary, slightly Westernized takes and Les Impériale definitely conveyed that to me.

The opening is dark, sweet and thick. I get a bit of a hay-like, dry woody or grassy (not green) quality. It reminded me of a less barnyardy version of the Anthony Marmin attars that I’ve tried. Not an oud to be afraid of at all. However, given it some time, it completely changes and the orris (which was the reason I chose this particular one) takes over.

It conquers the darkness and the sweetness and stunned me with how bright, vivid and floral iris-y it became. It’s quite the transition and the drydown feels more like a contemporary (spray) perfume style than all my previous experiences with attars; while keeping the qualities of an attar. It’s smooth, rich, natural smelling, close to the skin and long lasting, but it doesn’t wear like any oud fragrance that I know of.

If I had to compare it, I’d say the drydown is closest to something like the drydown of Gallivant Bukhara, but a couple of shades darker; maybe Veronique Gabai’s Lumiere D’Iris. It was a big surprise to me, but a pleasant one. There’s a nice sweetness, but it remains relatively fresh and versatile to wear.