FLORATROPIA
2020
PERFUMER
Delphine Thierry
ginger
black pepper
cardamom
cinnamon
ylang-ylang
lisylang
davana
benzoin
vanilla
‘A hot milky infusion of flowers, bark, spices and rhizomes. Botanical and narcotic, a flamboyant fragrance with solar, pure and saturated hues.’ – Floratropia
Le Feu opens in a way that I didn’t enjoy and turned into something quite intriguing, although I’d be lying if I said I loved it. Fun to sample though.
The opening smells like a rusty burned barbecue a bit to me. It’s unusual. I get creamy flowers, mixed with fiery spices; cardamom being the main thing I pick up at first. I found it surprisingly daring and indolic. Le Feu translates to fire and to me this does have a smoldering quality to it.
Once the burnt bacon vibe subsides, more of the sweetness comes through. Vanilla, cinnamon and yellow florals. Still, on the balsamic, vegetal-ish side and hard to describe for me. Also,smoky, but not in a traditional way, more like smoked/burnt spices. In the drydown I mostly get a peppery sensation for the mid and a creamy floral for the drydown.
Perhaps in part due to this being 100% natural and using wheat alcohol, it definitely falls in a category that feels different from most perfumes. It brought vague memories of Hiram Green Hyde to mind if anything, although that one took the smokiness to a whole new level. Le Feu becomes much easier on the nose, much quicker.
Le Feu is interesting after the opening and I think I found the ‘botanical’ styling more of a challenge for my taste, than the fiery facets. The spicy drydown was not too shabby, but I most liked the late drydown where it was all smooth and creamy. I was intrigued and kept smelling my hand, but I didn’t grow to love it yet on first wear.