AQUALIS
KRUGER

2020

PERFUMER
Jean-Charles Mignon

Pink Pepper
Bergamot

Turkish Rose
Saffron
Papyrus
Patchouli

Bourbon Vanilla
Sandalwood
Tonka Bean
Amber
White Musk

Kruger seems to be Aqualis’ ‘headliner’ as signified by it’s golden outfit and it’s one that I heard many things about, but mostly that it smells like Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood… Luckily, I think there’s more to it than that.

Kruger does have a sweet, fruity rose with a heavier base and it is almost as nuclear in performance as Oud Satin Mood is, but that’s only telling half the story. Kruger unfolds like a true powdery and spicy amber with the rose engulfing it throughout in a supporting role.

Most prominent to my nose in the first hour is an almost talcum powder-like resin, like an opoponax. It’s very elegant and the dry powderiness keeps the sweet rose from going jammy and (in my opinion often) cloying. Spices are also noticeable in the opening with a peppery vibe, but a clear hint of saffron as well.

I get the rose from start to finish, but I’d say this is as close to Grand Soir or Stephane Humbert Lucas Isra & Miraj as it is to Oud Satin Mood, with that (baby) powdery vibe making it a thing of it’s own completely. It adds a sense of clean and calm, that slowly moves towards more warmth and spiciness in the drydown.

Kruger balances the lightness of the powdery rose and bergamot with the heaviness of the woody base and the slightly leathery saffron well; not losing either element in the opening or the drydown. For my taste, it could’ve been less sweet as it dries, but it’s a solid fragrance.