CHRIS COLLINS
KINGMAKER – Master Of Oud
2023
PERFUMER
Hamid Merati-Kashani
bergamot
cardamom
pimento
lavender
rose
gurjum balsam
patchouli
sandalwood
oud assam
‘Charismatic. Influential. Intelligent. A symphony of notes, this olfactive masterpiece opens with the distinguished allure of bergamot. Sharp and discerning, it exudes an aura of unrivaled sophistication inviting you to join a world where only the extraordinary prevail. At the heart of KINGMAKER lies the unmistakable presence of pure Oud Assam and Sandalwood. Here, strength is embodied in its most exquisite form. These noble ingredients, ancient and rare, intertwine to create a scent that is undeniably bold, yet refined, resonating with the poise of true authority.’ – Chris Collins
This was an unexpected love for me. I’d tried it briefly in store and was surprised at how ‘serious’ of an oud fragrance this seemed to be; making me want to give it a proper try. And I must say that I liked it even more on skin.
The notes give a good idea of what to expect in my experience. You clearly get a lot of spices in the opening, with cardamom leading the way. Not too sharp, as I find this fragrance to be on the ‘wet’ side. This sort of wet, muddy texture comes in the form of patchouli and woods. You have a bit of skank from the Indian oud, but you mostly get a lot of earthy and slightly sweet patchouli to my nose.
The levity here comes from some of the fresher tones that cardamom carries and a hint of citrus from (potentially) the listed bergamot, but I feel it’s more so the citronellol qualities of the florals. What I don’t particular smell on first wearing is lavender, but it’s a dense and complex scent profile, so it could be that I’m overwhelmed by all the other facets that I’m smelling.
This combination of dirty oud, earthy patchouli, a bit of rose with a citrus edge and a moist texture reminds me a lot of Jazeel Ghala. With Ghala being more focused on the rose and more citrussy and Kingmaker being a more spicy overall fragrance; I think they will 100% appeal to the same audience though. You could perhaps also view it as a less clean, less aromatic fragrance in the realm of Xerjoff Alexandria II for a more popular reference.
An absolutely stunning creation with a skankier side that is often missed in modern perfumes that are available at bigger retailers (as Chris Collins is in my area). Strong thumbs up from me and probably my favorite from the brand.