NOEME
KHALIL
2022
PERFUMER
Majda Bekkali
caramel
cardamom
white woods
cedarwood
patchouli
tonka bean absolute
vetiver
ambroxan
iris
white musk
Khalil opens as one of the bigger cardamom fragrances that I’ve come across. A strong, sharp, spicy and green blast of unmistakable cardamom overtakes the opening hours. I was reminded of something, but couldn’t grasp it; turns out the first Fragrantica review was spot on in my opinion; this opens like BDK Gris Charnel with triple the dose of spice.
For me, there are three sides to Khalil. The most prominent is the cardamom woody one. It’s sharp, it’s dry (like dry cedarwood mostly), it’s clean (I don’t get as much of an earthiness from patchouli or vetiver).
Then there’s iris. It has a carroty spiciness along with the cardamom; reminiscent of Byredo Eyes Closed; even a tiny bit of Byredo Seven Veils, as it grows sweeter. It’s my favorite aspect of the fragrance.
Which brings us to the sweetness. Khalil lists caramel, which I do not get, but I do get a lot of ambroxan. A transparent, slightly fruity, sugary sweetness. There’s something very modern and clean about it. I picture ‘candied’, crisp cedar (don’t ask me to explain that). I’m often not a fan of this style of sweetness, but here I think it provides a good and needed balance to the cardamom.
A very interesting fragrance and one that you’re reminded of wearing constantly as its projection and sillage are big. A tad too hefty to be a cozy wear for me personally (more Eyes Closed than Gris Charnel in that regards), but more of a statement-maker.
Aman is definitely my favorite of the trio of Noeme launches in 2022. Soma is one that I’d wear more often than Khalil, but I do think Khalil is the more interesting fragrance.