XERJOFF
EMPIRYAN

2023

cypriol
Tobacco

cedarwood
incense

vanilla
amber
labdanum

Kemi Blending Magic is a division of Xerjoff, with a separate line of bottles. In March 2023 Xerjoff re-launched it under their own branding as the K Collection with 13 fragrances and 2 oils at launch.

‘Inspired by ancient cosmologies and what is known as the “highest heaven”, Empiryan opens to earthy notes of cypriol and the warm, yet sweet herbaceous notes of Tobacco. An experience which grounds the wearer with green, earthy notes, gradually transports the senses to an ethereal state of calm and sacredness as incense and cedar are released at the heart. Delicate yet compelling, Empiryan’s base of vanilla, labdanum and amber perfectly rounds up this divine scent’. – Xerjoff

I was very curious to try Empiryan. The notes looked a bit challenging (and it definitely fits the Kemi line as far as I knew it), but it shares a lot of notes with my favorite Xerjoff (and possible overall favorite fragrance), Lunosa.

Empiryan is a sweet labdanum tobacco, but with a very dry, stoic, almost gothic backbone. Cypriol is present here and as often, I find that note a bit uncomfortable and medicinal. However, with how sweet Empiryan gets, I think it strikes a good balance.

I definitely get the comparisons to the harsh, woody structure from Amouage Silver Oud and to some extent Royal Tobacco, as people have voted for on Fragrantica.

However, I kept thinking what it really reminds me of and I think it is Tom Ford Black Orchid. A much dryer Black Orchid, without the strong tuberose (although I can easily picture a hint of that intoxicating, almost boozy tinge in Empiryan).

With the huge blast of labdanum/vanilla, this is easier to wear than the aforementioned Amouages in my experience.

I’ve seen a lot of stark opinions on this one, but I think it’s not as daring as the opening may suggest (which is very pungent, albeit not animalic to me). The drydown is significantly easier going. If you enjoy a lot of the fragrances in the Xerjoff Oud Stars line for example, I think Empiryan would fit in no problem.

This is not something I’d go for, but it’s not too shabby. It’s the second new one from the K Blue line that I’ve tried and both are marginally better than expected, with Astaral being one of the better rose-ouds to my nose and Empiryan being a bit more ‘out there’.