PERNOIRE
KAMA
2024
Blackberry
birch tar
violet
orris
cotton candy
leather
cypriol
dry amber
moss
cashmere wool
musk
‘Kama, in ancient traditions, symbolizes the deep and vivid essence of desire. It represents the spark that ignites our desire and drives our pursuit of pleasure and connection. Over time, life’s routine can overshadow these fundamental desires. Yet, within each of us lies the flame of Kama, a reminder of our ability to experience, and indulge in life’s pleasures. This essence is not just about fleeting moments of happiness, but a deeper, more sustained enjoyment of life’s richness – in arts, nature, and human connections. Kama, named after the Sanskrit word for desire, is an ode to these enduring passions and pleasures. It is a call to reconnect with the vibrant, desirous being within us, celebrating the art of living with every sense. ‘ – Pernoire
Kama translates to desire and this vibrant take on leather definitely has a carnal, hedonistic vibe. Decadent leather, hints of nature and a candy sweetness for a dose of (over)indulgence. However, it does pull back quite a bit after the opening.
Leather is most prominent on first sniff for me and it’s a style of slightly fruity and violet-tinged leather that we’ve seen more of in recent years (Byredo Animalique, Fragrance du Bois PM, Atelier Materi Cuir Nilam). From Pernoire’s own line, this feels like a more leathery, dairy-free sibling to Amoral.
The main difference I would say is the sweetness and fruitiness from Kama. While the leather feels authentic; like an old leather couch, with some gasoline-like qualities, the sweetness is there right alongside from the start.
Listed is cotton candy, and I was a bit weary that Kama would have a BR540 tinge, but the leather and violet are way to prominent here to really make the connection.
As it dries down, the rootiness becomes more prominent for me and it starts pulling more towards an iris/carrot scent the more I smell it. More vegetal, but also more powdery and perhaps surprisingly, brighter. Leather, candy, fruity and this orris-root coexist, without the leather overtaking or the sweetness becoming too cloying.
I prefer the change, but it’s still definitely strong enough to be aimed at leather lovers. Looking at the supporting notes like birch, cypriol and cashmeran, that’s hardly a surprise. The leather itself would feel ‘older’, but the sweetness makes Kama contemporary. It’s a mix of old and new, but also of sensual and classy.