Amouage
Jubilation 40
2023
PERFUMER
Bertrand Duchaufour
orange
blackberry
blackcurrant
rosemary
davana
labdanum
scotch broom
cinnamon
clove
bay
celery seed
frankincense
cedarwood
myrrh
opoponax
cistus
patchouli
moss
musk
guaiac wood
ambergris
oud
Jubilation 40 (Based on Jubilation XXV) was released to commemorate the 40th anniversary of Amouage. It has 40% oil concentration.
I believe Jubilation XXV was one of the first 5 niche fragrances that I ever reviewed and one of my first favorites. So when Jubilation 40 was announced, it jumped to my most anticipated release of 2023.
Jubilation 40 nails its assignment as a flanker in ways that a lot of releases this year failed to do:
– It has the original DNA and instantly smells familiar.
– It deviates in fitting ways and stands out enough.
When I’m comparing it to my, couple of years old, XXV (which I must say performs extremely well, which is not everyone’s current experience), the opening is the most different. Jubilation 40 is much more forest-like. Camphor, pine woods set the scenery, which overpower some of the fruitiness.
However, it quickly becomes ambery. A fiery, warm, sweet amber. Here the fruits become more prominent again for me, in a thick, sticky, jammy way. It’s a majorly resinous composition.
In a sense is grows closer and closer XXV, but the 40 leans much more into the amber and has a bit more of a bite. The similar muddy earthy patchouli base creates most of the familiarity. I think Jubilation 40 leans into the patchouli and sweet oudy vibe even more, being just a tad darker and more opaque.
That being said, the late drydown feels similar on my skin. Performance is excellent, with sillage being dense and among the best in my collection. 40 definitely feeling closer to the skin, as maybe is to be expected at this concentration.
I’d say this is on par with (good batches of) XXV. I tend to prefer less earthy and more levity in the scent of XXV, but I also love the thickness and sweetness from 40. They are good companions, albeit very expensive and I don’t think 40 will massively change your feeling about this scent profile; you either love both or you don’t. I for one, am more than pleased to be able to add this to my permanent collection.
