XERJOFF
IRISSS
2007
PERFUMER
Jacques Flori
Carrot heart
carnation
bergamot
rose absolute
jasmine
violet
orris
cedarwood
frankincense
musk
vetiver
‘Crafted using one of the world’s most prized perfumery ingredients, Butter of Iris, Irisss is a truly comforting powder fragrance that exudes pure luxury. Irisss Xerjoff opening with an accord of carnation flowers and bergamot, the stunning heart notes of Butter of Iris and jasmine evoke the sumptuous softness of cashmere. A blend of Haitian vetiver and cedar wood lend a warming base that comes to life on the skin as time goes by.’ – Xerjoff
How can something so seemingly simple and neutral, be a statement maker at the same time? There’s an air of sophistication in Irisss that’s hard to convey in words. It smells… like other iris scents, but most pale in comparison to the sheer quality that Irisss exudes. Quality is one of those nondescriptors, but if it was ever justified, I think it’s here. I consider Irisss the Queen of my fragrance collection and a Xerjoff that even those skeptical of the house will find hard to ignore.
The iris is very rooty, slightly vegetal and earthy. Bitter, green and most of all carrot-like. It’s not as sweet as most carrot-iris scents and while it is powdery like most, it’s bitterness sets it apart. Gallivant Bukhara goes in this direction, but Irisss is much smoother and has less distractions from the iris. I also tried and liked the often compared Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, but Irisss is smoother, easier to wear and more cozy.
The secondary element seems to be the bergamot for me; after the first minutes I get a strong, citrussy Earl Grey tea coming through. There’s a lot of florals as well and I get an overall floral vibe, but none of them jump out at me in the way the bergamot does. In the later hours, there’s a soapy vetiver and musky cedar, but the iris is ever present. It does get a little bit sweeter eventually, but as mentioned, it remains relatively neutral. All those nuances are very subtle.
If you’re looking for a pure and elegant iris and want the best of the best, Irisss has to be on your radar. I guess a close competitor at an easier price point would be Masque Milano’s beautiful L’Attesa, but I do prefer the Xerjoff slightly. It won’t shock you, it won’t offend anyone (I’d call this is a ‘pretty’ scent), but it feels like discovering another realm of what’s possible with such simplicity. This feels like the highest quality of iris that I have come across.
