GUERLAIN
Iris Pallida Extrait 6

2023

PERFUMER
Thierry Wasser
Delphine Jelk

orris
Almond
Musk
Sandalwood
White Suede

I saved the best (expectations-wise) for last when it comes to sampling this Guerlain Les Extraits line. Iris is my favorite note in perfumery, so Iris Pallida was one that I was excited to sample.

This opens how I hoped it would. As a pretty focused,  buttery iris. Not too dry and powdery, but definitely an unmistakable iris. I love my rooty iris, with fragrances as Xerjoff Irisss among my favorite fragrances and this has some of that facet as well. However, I can see how they can put people off and Iris Pallida addresses this by adding just the right amount of sweetness. You definitely get that almond-tonka bean sweetness here and I actually prefer the scent in this composition over the Tonka Sarrapia experience. Purist may find it a bit too sweet however, but I think it strikes a nice balance.

What I love most about Iris Pallida is the soft texture. Compared to Xerjoff Irisss or Masque Milano L’Attesa, or many of the top iris scents, I think Guerlain did a great job at rounding off any sharper or bitter edges. Perhaps indicative of what we’ve come to expect from a Chanel iris.

The drydown is less to my taste, but on the other hand, it offers a welcome development to set it apart as a complete fragrance. In this case, by leaning pretty far into the suede facet. Definitely not a real leather scent and it keeps the softness and powdery touches of the iris and almond, but it’s on top of a cashmeran-suede like blanket.

For me, Iris Pallida and Rose Centifolia are the two standouts in this collection, but this of course mostly comes down to personal preference.