AEDES DE VENUSTAS
Iris Nazarena
2013
PERFUMER
Ralf Schwieger
iris
ambrette
juniper
star anise
clove
rose
oud
frankincense
patchouli
vetiver
As a massive iris lover, Iris Nazarena has been among the top iris fragrances available for me, since I first smelled. It’s still eluded my collection, given that I already have a dozen alternatives for it, but frankly… I still want it. I may need it. At least, it was time I reviewed this iris masterclass.
To me, Iris Nazarena opens almost stark. Like dry, earthy, almost muddy. It gives me the same ‘brittle stones’ powdery vibe that I get the most from Gallivant Bukhara, which happens to be made by the same perfumer. It’s the type of dry opening that you can almost taste in your mouth as you spray it on.
Whereas Bukhara has a brighter and sharper feeling with a lot of pear directly alongside it, the levity is more subtle and slower to reveal itself within Iris Nazarena, but I’d argue, quite similar. Almost juicy carrot, fresher, ever so slightly acidic at the edges. There’s a golden hue coming through after the dust settles.
Where Iris Nazarena takes more of a different path to me, is in its spices and warmer tones as it starts to dry down. I get a lot of clove from Iris Nazarena; moving closer and closer to fragrances such as Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait.
While I think Iris Nazarena is quite substantial, spicy, even sweet, I wouldn’t say that there are any particularly dark or heavy components that overtake the fragrance at any point. I don’t really get leather, the woods aren’t so strong that it doesn’t feel like an iris anymore. It has one of the absolute best balances for an iris scent.
Surely a notch above Bukhara to me, which is already a favorite of mine. Less singular than some of my other top favorites like Xerjoff Irisss or even Masque Milano L’Attesa, so perhaps more interesting for people who aren’t all about iris.
The cost and an abundance of iris fragrances in my collection have kept this out of my reach so far, but I can’t imagine Iris Nazarena not joining on my shelves as a full bottle one day.