AMOUAGE
INTERLUDE BLACK IRIS
2020
PERFUMER
Pierre Negrin
Violet
Rosemary
Bergamot
Orris
frankincense
myrrh
Vanilla
Amber
Labdanum
Leather
Oud
Sandalwood
Patchouli
Cedarwood
I couldn’t appreciate Interlude Man, because it was too loud and spicy for my taste. The 2020 Black Iris flanker sounds more approachable on paper and it was one of the most requested reviews at the time, so I had to get my nose on it. It’s easier on the nose, mainly in the drydown, but at the same time very similar to the original Interlude. The later Interlude 53 has my preference.
Interlude is known for it’s incense, combined with leather, spice and herbs. I wouldn’t say the original is bad at all, it’s complex, long lasting, but it’s a lot and I don’t enjoy wearing it myself. With Black Iris, the marketing seemed to aim at the inclusion of iris to create a ‘smoother heart’. I honestly expected this to be much more different from the original, with a noticeable smooth orris and sweetness, but it’s barely noticeable to my nose. In the drydown I can pick up on more of a lipsticky vibe. At that stage, when most of the spices and the sharpness of the leather and violet fade, it’s wearable and maybe even pleasant to me.
It’s close to the original though, with a similar punch in the opening, maybe a bit less challenging with the deduction of the oregano, but it makes less of a difference than I would’ve imagined. For most of the wear, Black Iris feels like an ever so slightly toned down Interlude (but still loud and big). I also don’t think it’s that much sweeter than Interlude Man was.
The verdict is simple: I think you will like and probably prefer Black Iris, if you like the original. If you don’t like the original Interlude, I highly doubt this flanker will change your mind. Which is a shame; it’s not a bad fragrance, but I don’t feel like this release adds anything to the Amouage line-up. If you’re looking for something in the same ballpark, but noticeable less daring, Journey Man is still a way to go in my opinion, as well as Hugo Boss Bottled Elixir. Interlude 53 has the softer, sweeter opening that I was looking for, but dries down pretty similar eventually.