PREMIERE PEAU
Insuline Safrine
2025
PERFUMER
Claire Liegent
saffron liqueur
praline sandalwood
saint-honore pastry
orange blossom
solar floral notes
‘A baroque gourmand wrapped in tension. Insuline Safrine reveals a decadent saffron liqueur with leathery, carnal undertones, layered over Saint-Honoré pastry, Madagascar vanilla, and a praline Australian sandalwood. Notes of orange blossom and spiced essences melt into a velvety overdose of indulgence—refined and radical at once.’ – Premiere Peau
‘I conceived Insuline Safrine as an olfactory mille-feuille, where each note bursts with heightened sensory intensity […] an olfactory feast, balancing abundance and excess, without the slightest restraint.’ – Claire Liegent
A quick general introduction, before diving into this specific fragrance. Premiere Peau launched in 2025 and simply based on presentation, aesthetics, but also to some extent, the notes, it immediately caught my attention as one of the most interesting new brands. After wearing them all once, I can say that most of them feel modern. Not as eccentric as I expected; none of them are ‘hard to pull off’ in my opinion; but some of them are on the abstract side, which I appreciate. There’s more sweetness among them than I anticipated. My stand outs on first impression are Doppel Dancers & Rose Monotone.
Insuline Safrine is in my opinion the least interesting of the 7 releases that the brand has launched with. It’s the most gourmand one and it’s rather straight-forward. This style of roasted, burnt caramelized gourmand has been trendy in the past years and frankly, I’m over it. That being said, it’s probably the most mass appealing one in the collection, as far as currently popular fragrances go. It fits in with some of the latest, most gourmand Sora Dora, Pernoire etc.
It has a nice sweet pastry vibe, but underneath is a sort of screechiness. It’s airy, but dense at the same time, however not smooth or creamy. The style always reminds me of Baccarat Rouge, but made fully gourmand.
Nothing unpleasant here, but this is not the style of perfume that I hoped to find in the Premiere Peau collection.