D’ORSAY
IL N’Y A PAS DE BIEN NI DE MAL (T.J.)

2019

PERFUMER
Amelie Bourgeois

Resins

Incense
Smoke

Labdanum
Oud
Vanilla
Patchouli

‘An Amber, Rose, Oud Fragrance evoking burning love, imagined by Amélie Bourgeois for D’ORSAY. T.J. slowly consumes us with love, setting us ablaze on an Oud Wood, while Labdanum and Incense hypnotize us, the Rose and the Iris fortunately keep us a little cool. If the symptoms persist, consult your perfumer.’ – D’Orsay

On first impression in the store, Il N’y a Pas De Bien Ni De Mal really stood out for me and I ended up buying the travel size (10ml) after sampling.

It’s extremely syrupy and very sweet. This might be up there with Baruti Perverso as the most syrupy scent I’ve encountered. From the opening, this sort of reminds me of what I wished Byredo Vanille Antique would become. After having worn it a few times, I get more of the woodiness and finally it clicked in my mind: ‘this smells like Amouage Jubilation XXV (& Fragrance Du Bois New York Intense). However, not as melancholic and brooding, but sweeter and easier to wear. Yet, the fruity sweetness (no idea where the fruitiness is coming from) and overall vibe is very similar to the Jubilation DNA to me.

There’s a tiny camphorous, fresher tinge to the woods that place this cozy, warming element in a pine forest setting for me and it helps to keep the sweetness from becoming cloying.

Stunning release by D’Orsay, which is a brand to keep an eye out for in general.