SOUL OF MAKEEN
HARRAN
2023
PERFUMER
Patrice Revillard
cereal
apricot
resin
honey
caramel
cedarwood
tonka bean
sandalwood
ebony ood
vanilla
musk
‘Harran, A little city surrounded by almond trees and sweet fruit, Is where the story began… A generous city, breathing beauty into even those whose eyes had turned white with sadness, With its unmistakable scent and sweet sounds of nature, Breaking bread at dawn in warm homes wafting the innocence of childhood and the wisdom of scholars, all in this little city in the East, where caravans come together.’ – Jovoy
‘The amber notes are dressed in an accord of cereals, candied fruit and honey. Like a regressive and comforting delight’ – Patrice Revillard
I had the pleasure to (too briefly) attend the Paris Perfume Week 2024. One of the better brands that was new to me was Soul Of Makeen. Harran is their latest and at least one of their greatest; I think there were 1 or 2 others that I may even prefer, but Harran was definitely the instant nose-catcher and the one I wanted to highlight.
I believe this was easily the most popular among my group of people attending the brand’s presentation and it’s not hard to see why. Following a recent trend of roasted, popcorn-esque gourmands, Harran could appeal to both full-on gourmand lovers and those looking for something a little more artistic.
Notes of cereal, apricot, resins, caramel, vanilla, tonka bean and woods are listed and I’d say is that cereal accord that instantly dominates. Harran is pretty sweet, but it’s relatively dry and roasted; pulling towards bread-like, rice and popcorn qualities. At some points perhaps a somewhat less sweet rice cookie, at other moments the vanilla and caramel are more prominent as well. Yet it never goes cloying, basic or ‘too vibrant’, it smells for lack of a better word, niche.
There is a hint of freshness, presumably an airy whiff of apricot, but I don’t get a strong fruity or juicy facet. Instead, as one might expect given the notes, the sweetness and woodiness prevail throughout the entire wear. The later hours are pretty much overtaken by a cozy vanilla blanket on my skin.
Fragrances that this broadly reminded me of are both Versatile Paris Croissant Cafe & God Bless Cola (drydown), Scents of Wood Bread in Chestnut, Teo Cabanel Oh La La or even a Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau. I feel like I get more of a (puffed) rice essence in Harran than in any of those and it becomes more vanillic than some, so it deviates enough, but will definitely appeal to the same crowd.
Lastly, a shout-out to the presentation. In a field of either basic or often kitschy bottles from upcoming brands,, I think Soul Of Makeen knocked it out of the park with their branding. These little bottles are high quality and are surprisingly hefty. I think we will be hearing more of this brand.