HERMES
H24 EDP

2022

PERFUMER
Christine Nagel

Clary Sage
Narcissus
rosewood
oakmoss
Sclarene

Based on everything that I heard about H24 EDP, this is a lot more similar to the H24 EDT than I thought, but at the same time, it evolves in a new way.

To recap; The EDT was probably one of the more divisive and arguably not-great-received big designer releases in recent years. I personally found it quite unique and one of the better new options in a field of generic blue-ish fragrances. I wouldn’t call it groundbreaking or a favorite, nor can it follow in Terre D’Hermes footsteps by a large margin, but I was not mad at the release at all.

I heard a lot of negatives about the EDT and basicaly everything I heard about the EDP boiled down to: ‘it’s a lot better and more mossy and mature’. And while I agree with that, it’s not all that different at the same time. The EDT felt very synthetic, not in the negative way that people in the fragrance community often mean it (smelling cheap), but it felt abstract and hypermodern in some ways. The EDP feels a bit more full-bodied and traditional.

But for me, the scent is largely the same. The opening has a weird fruitiness, closest resemble an unnatural banana scent for me. The core is this aromatic, slightly herbal ‘steam’ accord that gives this a quite unique scent in today’s designer realm. There’s something metallic and dewy to it, like humid air.

In the late drydown the more mossy, classical style of the EDP stands out the most, at times reminding me of Roja Parfums Apex EDP.

I feel like the EDP is a bit more conventional, which is likely necessary to make this DNA more successful. I guestimated that this DNA would probably become pretty big in the years following the original release and I still feel like it will. The ‘green-shift’ in the designers isn’t really there yet, but I have a feeling that H24 will be a staple some years from now. For me personally, it’s not really something that I love, but if I had a bottle, I wouldn’t mind wearing it at all.