GUERLAIN
Les Elixirs Charnels – GOURMAND COQUIN
2008
PERFUMER
Christine Nagel
Sylvaine Delacourte
Gourmand Coquin was re-released as Feve Gourmande (2023). I smelled Feve Gourmande briefly in store and it seems like the same formulation (Thierry Wasser confirmed it has not been changed, despite the brand now listing Delphine Jelk as the perfumer).
Dark Chocolate
Cacao
Rum
Vanilla
Spicy notes
Rose
Pepper
In my now infamous words: ‘I smell like a high end prostitute wearing this’ and it’s wonderful.
I’d been eyeing Gourmand Coquin for a while, when I found myself at the Guerlain boutique in Brussels. My wallet was in dangerous territory. Some sampling and excellent service later and here we are… I believe I actually bought the last available bottle in this Elixirs presentation in Europe.
That Elixirs collection has since been discontinued in part, while some were merged into the L’Art & La Matiere line in 2022. Gourmand Coquin wasn’t part of that group (it was still ocassionally available at Guerlain fountains to refill Bee bottles), until it was re-released and rebranded as Feve Gourmande in 2023.
I’d been on a massive gourmand kick, which also means that some of the sweet fragrances can overlap and become redundant, but not with Gourmand Coquin.
Straight from the opening this fragrance takes me into a Belgian bonbon shop. Chocolate (powdery white chocolate in the opening to me) and booze are the first two things that jump out. It’s one of the most beautiful, sophisticated chocolate scents I’ve come across. The booze, listed as rum, has hints of dried fruits and makes this a mature gourmand. There’s a sensual rose that catches you by surprise on some wafts.
The chocolate, booze and rose all have great staying power. They blend into each other more, but the elements are clearly there for the majority of the wear. I feel like it’s quite a personal, close-range scent. The longevity however, seems to be very impressive, although ultimately ending in a more generic powdery vanilla. One of my all-time favorites.
