VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
FIRST EDT

1976

PERFUMER
Jean-Claude Ellena

aldehydes
blackcurrant
peach
bergamot
mandarin
raspberry

narcissus
carnation
hyacinth
jasmine
lily-of-the-valley
orchid
orris
tuberose
turkish rose
ylang-ylang

civet
honey
musk
oakmoss
sandalwood
vanilla
vetiver
amber
tonka bean

I had quite an interesting ride with my vintage miniature of Van Cleef & Arpels First EDT. Going from lovely opening, to familiar (and not my taste) mid section, to a quite lovely drydown again.

Straigth away when I applied this, it reminded me of both Chanel No. 5 and Guerlain Mitsouko. It turns out (after some more time), it’s much closer to the Chanel initally and it definitely seems to follow it’s lineage, probably with some actual inspiration taken from the great aldehydic florals that came before it.

I’m not the biggest no. 5 or aldehydes fan, so once it moved strongly in that direction, I kind of lost interest in First. Not that it was bad (and I actually would prefer it over the Chanel personally), but it’s not for me. I feel like it has a less prominent, babypowdery and acidic facet, but there’s still some sharpness and the tiniest hint of animalic acidity.

What surprised me however, is that I was once again introduced to a more honeyed, green and sandalwoody base that’s more reminiscent of the vintage Mitsouko and also my vintage Miss Dior EDTs. This drydown is after the aldehydes have played their part and is a much cozier, warmer and smoother wear.