ROCHAS
FEMME ROCHAS EDT

1989

PERFUMER
Olivier Cresp

cumin
peach
rosewood
cinnamon
plum
bergamot
apricot
lemon

clove
carnation
iris
rose
rosemary
ylang-ylang
jasmine

oakmoss
amber
musk
patchouli
benzoin
vanilla
leather

Femme Rochas was first released in 1944 by Edmond Roudnitska. It was reformulated in 1989 by Olivier Cresp. The biggest change in formulation seems to be the cumin (it’s not listed in other note breakdowns, but Cresp’s version has a clear cumin note added, so I did add it to the list for this version).

I’m not going to lie; from the first spray on, Rochas Femme was nearly unwearable to me. I’m notoriously bad with cumin and it’s very prominent in this version.

This is often compared to Mitsouko and I got a hint of Mitsouko’s mossy, chypre quality, especially as it dries down. However, it was completely overpowered in the first hours by a dry, powdery cumin. Overall on the spicy side with a hint of dried fruits.

The cumin makes this super skanky to me; part sweaty, part cooking spice with a hint of acidity as well. In the late drydown it’s toned down and a bit more warmth and sweetness is added, making it wearable eventually for me.