JORUM STUDIO
FANTOSMIA
2020
PERFUMER
Euan McCall
Black Pepper
annato
Cardamom
shiso
Pimento
Fennel
mate
Saffron
Tobacco
Nutmeg
Castoreum (Synthetic)
Cascarilla
Aetoxylon
‘Fantosmia Eau de Parfum is a perfume that marries natural phenomenon with manufactured intelligence in equal measure. The end result presents a progressive step towards a new olfactory language – speaking not only in notes and aromatic raw materials, but also in shape, form, texture, surface, physicality, the elusive and intangible; giving additional lexicon to odours, their form and resulting sensation (olfacticality). Existing in liquid form, Fantosmia transcends materiality and showcases the inherent beauty of select natural materials and the power of harnessed molecular knowledge.’- Jorum Studio
On the very first moment sniffing Fantosmia, I thought I’d strongly dislike it and almost regretted spraying it on. This opens with a oily, sharp green. Picture slick green, grassy oil, which is far removed from my preference.
However, some minutes in, a darker base pushes back and it becomes remarkably interesting and also wearable for a green perfume for me personally. It retains that slightly herbal, oily green juice for a while, but it’s on top of a earthy suede. If I had to make a scent connection to this opening, it’s the smell of a football/soccer ball after being used on a shoddy makeshift pitch… but made classy.
The more it dries, the more a leather centric scent takes over. There’s a hint of what I call ‘shoe polish’ leather, that reminds me of Matiere Premiere Oud Seven, but it’s more subtle in Fantosmia. Another way to put it would be that it reminds me slightly of gasoline.
If you like mature, non-screechy, but modern and oily leathers, Fantosmia might be one to put on your radar.