MATIERE PREMIERE
FALCON LEATHER EXTRAIT

2024

PERFUMER
Aurelien Guichard

bangladesh oud assafi
saffron

birch tar

benzoin
cistus

An extrait flanker to Falcon Leather EDP (2019). Part of the first 5 Matiere Premiere Extraits: Santal Austal, Radical Rose, Crystal Saffron, Falcon Leather & Encens Suave.

‘One common creative approach for all the Extraits de Parfum:
– a higher perfume concentration
– a higher dosage of the central main ingredient
– the addition of a guest ingredient to bring a new facet to the note’ – Matiere Premiere

‘This particular Oud, considered as one of the most qualitative in the world, is incredibly deep, dark and rich. It brings warmth, while emphasizing the literal, sleek-side and suede-side leathery aspect in Falcon Leather.’ – Aurelien Guichard

I liked the Falcon Leather EDP more than I expected. As someone who’s not the biggest fan of certain leather scents, Falcon Leather was surprisingly woody and a bit sweetened. I much preferred it over Crystal Saffron EDP and Oud Seven, which both had more of a recognizable leather tinge to my nose. But how does the Extrait hold up?

Again, I liked it more than expected, at least for some hours (and it seems to last forever). The leather comes out more and more on the back-end, which I didn’t necessarily need, but I do understand that it is Falcon Leather after all.

Instead, I love the first hours much more. I get a strong tobacco vibe from this Extrait. It has the woodiness and sweetness from the EDP, but even more of the bitterness, like a rolling tobacco (perhaps thats the oud; I’m not familiar with the type). When I tried it on paper first, this bitterness felt almost floral, tree sappy, but on skin, I was constantly reminded of tobacco for the first couple of hours.

I feel like 3 of the other extraits that I tried add mostly sweetness; here I find it more balanced. A well-executed flanker. Not my favorite Matiere Premiere DNA, but I can definitely appreciate what it was and what it became in this version.