PARFUM D’EMPIRE
Equistrius
2007
PERFUMER
Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
VIOLET
AMBRETTE
CHOCOLATE
IRIS
RICE POWDER
SUEDE
SANDALWOOD
AMBERGRIS
Equistrius was an instant and strong like for me and it’s probably my favorite Parfum D’Empire in my testing so far.
This takes the somewhat more substantial, rooty, but heavily carrot-scented side of iris to the forefront. Less so the floral and powdery side. It It has the carrot-iris vibe, mixed with a warming sweetness, which is done excellently.
Not quite as much chocolate as in some others. More carrot-heavy than the lovely Strangelove Meltmyheart and this fragrance is definitely much lighter than Bon Parfumeur 502 Iris Cartagena.
It transforms into this smooth, woodiness, before adding (subtle) leather tones. I don’t get much of the expected textures from iris (or the listed rice powder), but almost a lightly spiced, sweet liqueur. I would’ve guessed notes like hay or cinnamon to be listed for the mid of this wear. Yet, you retain a fresher, crisper tinge throughout; I view it as the carroty iris, but I can also see how someone would find the notorious ‘cucumber sandalwood’ from Le Labo Santal 33 or Guerlain Santal Pao Rosa coming through.
Not nearly as heavy on the violet scent and the powdery or dry texture as I was expecting based on some reviews I’d read. From my references, the overall scent is closest to Teo Cabanel Encore at first. It moves closer to something akin to Byredo Animalique or Annindriya Orris Soyeux after a while. Maybe the less-dry-than-expected texture has to do with a wateriness from ambergris, the way it also feels clear and smooth in their Ambre Russe. Either way, I feel like this wears very smooth. As mentioned, Equistrius grows leathery. The more the wear progresses, the more it comes through, which isn’t my favorite part, but it remains subtle enough for me to enjoy fully.
I’d argue the Parfum d’Empire is softer and smoother than any of the aforementioned fragrances by quite a margin. It’s delicate, cozy, a tiniest hint of gourmand, and overall a nicely balanced fragrance.