GUERLAIN
EPICES EXQUISES
2022
PERFUMER
Thierry Wasser
Cardamom
Angelica
Pink Pepper
Coffee
Black Pepper
Oud
Sandalwood
Patchouli
This was re-released as Absolus Allegoria Epices Exquises in 2024.
Épices Exquises was added later to the (mostly okay-ish) Les Absolus d’Orient line and I think it does a pretty good job at keeping into the tradition and quality of this line.
Straight from the opening I get a lifelike cardamom as the main player in this fragrance. It tingles your nose and smells close to sniffing an actual vial of cardamom pods. It’s joined by peppers and a green, rooty angelica, so you get this semi-fresh green spicy kick.
As with most coffee scents, I can’t say I really detect coffee here; nor is it a vanillic, milky one. Instead the base grows woodier, with maybe a hint of bitter coffee grounds. I mostly get woods however, with a hint of oud a la Santal Royal. I actually also get a dry, dusty suede quality here that’s not listed, but also reminds me a bit of the Santal Royal drydown. All the while with the cardamom surrounding it.
It’s not my personal style, but I think this is a classy, ‘gentlemen’s’ style fragrance.