TEO CABANEL
ENCORE
2022
PERFUMER
Marie Schnirer
carrot seed
Peach
Chai Latte
Iris
Sandalwood
Green Vanilla
Ambroxan
Musk
Rarely was I more excited to try a release as I was for Encore. As someone who loves iris, carrot and gourmands, this one seemed perfect. I sampled it when it was released and it ended up being different from my expectations, but I love it equally so. Encore might be my favorite Teo Cabanel (finally dethroning Cafe Cabanel & Barkhane).
Straight from the opening, it’s fresher and brighter than I imagined. Fresh carroty iris is mostly what I get, with more spices than actual gourmand sweetness.
Don’t expect a super sweet vanilla carrot cake; it’s much more of a bready pastry with spices. The fragrance that this perhaps resembles most for me is Byredo Eyes Closed. Initially, Masque Milano Lost Alice, but Encore is lighter and has more breathing room in the composition. It’s not as sweet or warm as Lost Alice, especially in the first hours. I actually sold Lost Alice, because I found it a bit cloying; that issue won’t present itself here.
As it dries down, the breadiness takes over. Not quite pastry, but a bread infused with some nuts and seeds that has just cooled down. It becomes lactonic too. More pure milk than a cinnamon and clove heavy chai latte to me. At the same time there’s a fresh greener tinge, which I have trouble describing, perhaps cucumber? I’m guessing this is like the notorious ‘pickle sandalwood’ that people detect in Santal 33, I get it in Guerlain Santal Pao Rosa as well. Here it’s prominent, but the freshness compliments the sweetness well.
Because it’s not to say that the vanilla sweetness is non-existent; it takes a while to come through and it’s much subtler than I expected, but it’s there and in the later drydown you’re left with a sweetened musky warm milk skin scent with an ever so slightly green tinge.
Encore was a love at first sniff for me and it has remained so after multiple wearings, although I can imagine people to expect a denser and sweeter gourmand based on the notes. A versatile (semi?) gourmand that wouldn’t be out of place even in high heat or in formal settings. And as of 2024, my top Teo Cabanel recommendation.
