AMOUAGE
ENCLAVE

2020

PERFUMER
Julien Rasquinet

Mint
Cardamom
Cinnamon
Pink Pepper

frankincense
Patchouli
Vetiver
Rose

Amber Xtreme
Labdanum
Leather

Enclave is a very intriguing release. It was one that I was very eager to try, but also one that I didn’t expect to love. It has received a lot of less than favorable reviews, because it was one of the first releases with Renaud Salmon taking over as creative director at Amouage and it took the brand in a much more modern direction. Enclave in particular is a strong departure from the Amouage’s that came before it. Looking back 4 years later in 2024, it’s pretty wild how far Amouage has strayed from this path since, but I digress.

It opens with a blast of mint, some cardamom and an overall greener, in my opinion strongly masculine leaning scent. It’s listed as a fougere and this is where you get that green and fresh tinge and it’s rather unique. It’s more of a darker, heavier mint; almost liquorice to my nose. There’s also a clear cola vibe similar to Roja’s Enigma. It’s vastly different overall, but it’s that cola (and maybe like a rum and coke) smell that triggers the connection.

Enclave quickly sweetens, which I didn’t expect at all coming from Amouage at the time. I’m not sure if it’s the patchouli or something with the resins, but it becomes like a chocolate scent, with a dark green edge and there’s also some of the pink pepper and cinnamon at first, for a spicy touch. I think labdanum plays a big role in this mid section of the wear. It gets very dry in the drydown, but also quite transparent in feeling for a fragrance this dark. It’s not a particularly strong performer on my skin, but it does fine, it’s just not as dense as a lot of other Amouage.

It’s quite a ride and there are moments where I’m not fully loving Enclave, but there are more in which I do. For now, I lean towards thinking this is one of the most interesting release from the Renaissance collection. Enclave can easily be misunderstood and needs several wears.