YLEM PARFUMS
EASTERN VEIL
2024
PERFUMER
Andreas Wilhelm
gourmand notes
iris
spicy notes
musk
‘Eastern Veil is an iris fragrance enriched with dry gourmand notes.
Ylem is a hypothetical susbstance proposed by G.Gamow, believed to have existed just after the big bang and considered the origin of all existing elements. We created three otherworldly fragrances named after nebulae existing in the universe. Our master perfumer Andres Wilhelm and we used colors, names and emotions evoked by the nebulae and transformed them into three beautiful scents’. – Ylem Parfums
I was happy to test the pre-release samples of Eastern Veil, Eye Of God & Soap Bubble; a trio of fragrance that YLEM is launching with in 2024. Eastern Veil is up for debate as my favorite of the set.
Straight away, I get a distinct roasted quality in Eastern Veil. The typical pyrazine-esque, popcorn, pastry vibe that seems to be one of the biggest trends of 2023-2024. For a moment I thought this would stick in that direction, which can be a bit harsh and cloying, but I like that Eastern Veil changes up a bit.
You do get that bread or pastry essence throughout, but for me it becomes spicy first. Cinnamon jumped out at me for a good chunk of the wear. I don’t know if cinnamon will be part of the full note breakdown, but I would definitely put Eastern Veil on the radar for cinnamon lovers based on what I’m smelling.
As is often the case with cinnamon-esque spices, you get a hint of a connection to cola, however, there is little to no acidity in this fragrance; opposed to for example in Versatile God Bless Cola, where you get popcorn and cola, but the sourness didn’t work for me that well. In that regards, this is probably closer to Versatile’s Croissant Cafe. Perfumer Andreas Vilhelm also did a sweet and spicy fragrance in Pernoire Otimo around the same time as this, but I have to say I prefer the YLEM in this case.
Eastern Veil is all warm, it’s comforting. It’s a pretty dense and heavy scent, but it’s not too loud or harsh. Overall, a really nice take on this type of sweet fragrance.