PRISSANA
DUNHUANG (敦煌)

2022

PERFUMER
Prin Lomros

Jasmin tea
Mandarin
Tangerine
Plum
Jasmine absolute
Magnolia
Lapsang souchong
Osmanthus
Incense
Rose
Angelica
Anise oil
Caraway
Ginger
Black pepper
Kumquat
Cinnamon
Clove bud
cumin
Costus
Cedarwood
Sandalwood
Moss
Synthetic Civet
Patchouli
Amber

Another gem by Prin. Despite the notes not going in this direction, I immediately get the charred woody bitter chocolate that I’ve smelled in several of his works (most known being SM Cafe). Here, it is going in a completely different direction though.

A lot is going on here, so it’s hard to describe, but you get bitter tea leaf, dark sweetness, charred woodiness that all combined ends up being… not overly dark and harsh? There is an indescribable brightness cutting through, that I would categorize mostly as fruity in the first hour, although there is definitely a strong floral side as well that is more prominent later on.

Yet, I keep getting chocolate from this. The combination of the chocolate and fruitiness even recalls briefly a fragrance like Bortnikoff Oud Al Sultan. Albeit that Dunhuang wears much nicer in all aspects for me.

As other reviewer have mentioned, this goes very creamy as it dries. Creamy and balmy, almost in the way that my Ensar Tonkin Musk and Tibetan Musk grow, which is always a huge bonus. The texture is hard to beat. The scent, while lovely, doesn’t evolve all that much; mostly because the darker notes and sweetness take over pretty much from the start of the wear.

Based on what I read, I was expecting it to be less sweet and smokier, but the combination of those facets works really well on my skin either way. In between Dunhuang and Mandarava, the Prissana line has shot up in reputation for me and both are potential additions to my collection at one point in the future.