PREMIERE PEAU
Doppel Däncers
2025
PERFUMER
Claire Liegent
gentle skin accord
iris
black sesame
pink pepper
floral notes
amber woods
immortelle
cumin
sandalwood
musk
‘Doppel Däncers opens with a soft, clean musk overlaid with roasted black sesame and the dry bloom of immortelle. A double iris—French and Italian—shimmers like mirrored silk, while a pulsing amber hums beneath. It’s a fragrance of friction: tenderness wrapped in grit, elegance laced with unrest.’ – Premiere Peau
‘I sought to capture the pulse of an uncertain heart. It’s a duet of opposing forces, a fragile balance, a choreography of controlled clashes where contrast and escape intertwine.’ – Claire Liegent
A quick general introduction, before diving into this specific fragrance. Premiere Peau launched in 2025 and simply based on presentation, aesthetics, but also to some extent, the notes, it immediately caught my attention as one of the most interesting new brands. After wearing them all once, I can say that most of them feel modern. Not as eccentric as I expected; none of them are ‘hard to pull off’ in my opinion; but some of them are on the abstract side, which I appreciate. There’s more sweetness among them than I anticipated. My stand outs on first impression are Doppel Dancers & Rose Monotone.
This was the fragrance that I had the highest hopes for and it delivered. As tends to be the case with this brand, my experience and the listed notes don’t necessarily match though, and while I loved Doppel Dancers, it was not as I was expecting.
To my nose, this opens like a sweet cherry scent. Spiced, cinnamon-tinged, smoky cherry with some iris-woody core. Initially going almost in a (dark) cherry bubblegum-lollipop direction, before going sweeter and earthier. I was reminded of Serge Lutens Feminite Du Bois for a moment.
Looking at the listed notes, pink pepper is the only thing that I could picture making it go in this direction, but either way, I do really enjoy it and I’ll have to give it another try to see if I perceive it the same then.
As it dries, I find that it moves a little bit in the direction of the sweet earthiness of Albatre Sepia; warm, mushy, sweet woods. A tad lighter and brighter here. Overall, definitely one of my favorite from the brand.