ROJA PARFUMS
DIAGHILEV PARFUM
2010
PERFUMER
Roja Dove
lemon
bergamot
lime
orange
tarragon
rose de mai
jasmine
tuberose
ylang-ylang
heliotrope
violet
blackcurrant bud
peach
clove
cumin
patchouli
oakmoss
vetiver
cedarwood
guaiac wood
sandalwood
benzoin
vanilla
peru balsam
orris
styrax
labdanum
leather
ambrette
ambergris
musk
civet
‘A scent inspired by one of the greatest creative talents of the 20th Century, Diaghilev is a truly theatrical perfume which brings to life the multi-sensory experience of a performance at Paris’ Opera House. Defying the rules of convention, Diaghilev completely re-defined the meaning of artistry and became the catalyst for the Art-Deco movement. This trailblazing spirit which has been immortalised by this incredibly complex creation which pushes decadence to the extreme with a grand total of 33 raw materials which work in perfect harmony to create a complex Chypré accord that is at once spicy, fruity and leathery. A perfume of unapologetic opulence, Diaghilev lingers in the memories of those who smelt it long after it has left. Unlike anything that came before it, the cult status of this scent is not without justification. Initially created for an exhibition on The Ballet Russes for the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, this perfume pays homage to one of the greatest forces of the twentieth century: Sergei Diaghilev. Founder of the legendary Ballet Russes, he totally re-wrote the rules of artistry and was even said to have scented the curtains of the theatre so patrons were enveloped in a burst of fragrance as they were raised at the start of the performance. A bold symphony of 33 ingredients, a floral heart of Jasmine, Tuberose, Heliotrope and Violet create a sweet and beautiful harmony which is underscored by a lively melody of fruity Blackcurrant, Peach and Citrus. Warm, earthy Patchouli and Oakmoss are joined on stage by the naughty seductiveness of Benzoin, Leather and Labdanum. An unmistakable creation, Diaghilev -much like the man himself – is too decadent to be forgotten.’ – Roja Parfums
As soon as you smell Diaghilev you understand where the comparisons to Guerlain Mitsouko stem from. However, to my nose Diaghilev is a lot dirtier and sharper than what Mitsouko has become. On the other hand, I have vintage batches of Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette and Mitsouko Parfum, which probably due to aging, have become softer and sweeter. Diaghilev strikes a good balance.
Civet is noticeable here, creating a similar sparkling acidit found in Zoologist Civet. Diaghilev leans more traditionally masculine than Mitsouko did for me and it’s an absolute beast of a fragrance. The spices, fruit, florals (a lot of tuberose), moss and animalics all bounce off each other with plenty of projection.
It’s slightly indolic, acidic and vintage, like for example Amouage Gold Man is. A little goes a long way as far as number of sprays goes, but it’s a rightful gem in the Roja line-up.