MICALLEF
DesirToxic L’Intense

2024

PERFUMER
Thierry Romeo

Cardamom
Bergamot
Lemon
Mint

Tonka Bean
Cinnamon
saffron
Blackcurrant

ambergris
musk
benzoin
musk
patchouli

Rarely have I been as conflicted about a release upon first impression, as I am with this DesirToxic L’Intense. And frankly, I think it has more to do with the large amount of rather boring, generic fragrances I’ve sampled in days/weeks prior. DesirToxic L’Intense is at least not boring, but I’m not sure if that’s swaying me to give it a pass?

Because, it’s not great to me either. Definitely not what I would usually appreciate. Texture-wise especially, this fragrance wears nothing like I aspire to wear.

2 things came to mind, texture -and to some extent scent-wise: Chlorine loaded swimming pools and hairspray. It definitely has that sparkling, fizzy quality of a barbershop cologne, but also the hefty marine -and herbal masculine shampoos of 1-2-3 decades ago.

The scent is not unpleasant; spicy, aquatic, herbal with that fougere-coumarin-tonka sweetness coming through. To me, this smells dated and recalls a mix of Adidas aquatic shampoos and ‘too serious’ masculine colognes like Van Gils that my father used to have at home.

Comparisons have been made to Parfums de Marly Layton (much sweeter, fruitier and less aquatic) and Amouage Reflection 45 (way different texture and less floral, the Micallef is way more traditionally masculine). Closest from the comparisons made on other sites would probably be Dior Sauvage Elixir. It made my mind go to Davidoff Hot Water, but I much preferred that one over it personally.

I’ve never tried the original, but as far as the L’Intense goes, conflicted is where I land.