LES ABSTRAITS
DES CENDRES

2023

PERFUMER
Antoine Lie

Aniseed
Galbanum
Birch Tar
Pine Tar

Mint
Clove
Violet
Tuberose
Leather

Patchouli
Vetiver
Hyraceum
Oakmoss

Les Abstraits’ third release takes cues from yesteryear’s masculine marketed fragrances with a chypre base. Not my usual style and in the first minutes Des Cendres appealed to my taste less than its two predecessors from Les Abstraits.

There’s a green, sharp tinge, reminding me of sticky, slightly bubblegummy tree sap. It contains mint, giving it that sharp, camphor edge. Combined with charred woods, it gives off a life-like forest vibe.

The birch tar is very prominent, but luckily it’s not a barbecue type of smoke. To me it smells like charred, dry wood, some hours after it’s been burning.

The scent warms up, not quite animalic, but it has a primal heat throughout. It tickles the senses. Some wafts go in a Fahrenheit direction, but I get very little leather in Des Cendres.

To my surprise, I like the drydown and I feel it reaches that quickly. Up close, the greenness persists, albeit more ‘vintage’ mossy and spicy, than the higher pitched opening; almost a Mitsouko-style base. In the air, I get a warmer, mature spicy wood and much less green.

I feel like Des Cendres would’ve made the perfect Uncut Gem for Frederic Malle, based on the narrative leading up to that launch. Or perhaps an Apex, more fitting in with the higher end Roja’s than the Apex that we got. It’s really good and could easily be the standout from the brand for a certain audience.

While Belle Ame is definitely my favorite from the ‘launch collection’, Des Cendres won me over. La Douleur Exquise is more up my alley and I’ll likely wear it more, but Des Cendres is probably the more interesting release between those two in my opinion.