MAISON VIOLET
CYCLE 002
2020
PERFUMER
Nathalie Lorson
bergamot
mandarin
lime
bitter orange
black pepper
elemi
chili
clove
cumin
cedarwood
guaiac wood
labdanum
peru balsam
frankincense
‘Cycle 002 is the emissary of a distant and unknown world, the fragrance of a fantasized future. With the help of Nathalie Lorson, Violet depicts, this time, the incandescence of nature. From the simmering resinous woods to scorching sands and fiery spices, this new creation sparks the imagination, shattering conventional norms. Its message is strikingly simple: let us do everything in our power to ensure that the perfume from this haunting desert remains forever an ethereal dream. Cycle 002 embodies a flamboyant uniqueness. It extends a genuine invitation to conquer the future, softly murmuring that you are its harbinger. Radiant as a summer sun, bergamot gleams proudly atop Cycle 002. Its black pepper, akin to a dry whirlwind carries the spicy intensity of vast desert expanses within its vortex. Within this olfactory panorama chili and clove tenderly measure each other. Their union begets a delicate equilibrium, a dense between tension and comfort. The essence of cumin introduces an earthy notes, a distant envoy from a far greener real. With Cycle 002, incense transforms into warm, incisive resin. Here, there’s no mysticism, no prayer, no offering. The sole deity is the desert itself, potent, absolute and unyielding.’ – Maison Violet
Cycle 002 is the second, but very different, entry in Maison Violet’s Cycle collection. Whereas Cycle 001 felt like a strong deviation from their regular line, with a clean, minimal approach, Cycle 002 is another new approach.
Still quite far from the more vintage-inspired styling in most of the Maison Violet fragrances, Cycle 002 opts for an uncompromising dose of spices and a relatively modern, but full-bodied & classy styling.
Cumin, pepper and clove stand out for me upon first sniff, with the cumin being a bit much for my taste in the first hour. After that, I start enjoying Cycle 002 a lot more. I’m reminded of the original Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb EDT and also a bit of its more recent companion Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait.
Spices don’t let up in this composition as they are prominent throughout. The cumin eventually fades (not completely though) and the smell of clove remains front and center to my nose.
They get aided by a more cozy, warm and sweet woodiness. It’s this facet that provides the promised comfort. Texture-wise, this is not an overly dry fragrance, despite the spices and the brand’s description of a vast and haunting desert. Instead, this feels more intimate to me (in the way Heaven Can Wait does). With the cumin adding a warm body odor tinge, the sweetness growing, accumulating into an almost ‘Christmassy’ sensation in my mind.
I like that it doesn’t shy away from putting the spices on display. I feel like we haven’t seen that as much in perfumery lately, as often the spices get fully overtaken by either an overload of sweetness or a darker leather or oud accord. Here, the spiciness makes the fragrance (or breaks, depending on your taste).
This is a beautiful option to explore. As mentioned, for me, the cumin opening is a bit much, but not to the point where it keeps me from enjoying Cycle 002. It’s warm and sweet enough (unlike for example Cartier Declaration) to stay on the safe side. If anything, I think the wearer’s feelings towards clove may be most important in Cycle 002’s reception.
I think it’s pretty nice and a new facet to the brand. I personally wouldn’t pick it over Cycle 001, but it is more exciting. On first impression it also doesn’t dethrone Sketch as my current favorite Maison Violet, but it’s definitely in their upper half for me. Another one worth exploring from a quality house with little to no misses.