MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER
CUIR FETICHE

2011

PERFUMER
Jean-Paul Millet Lage

Bergamot
Mandarin
Lemon
geranium

Leather
Iris
Jasmine
Ylang-Ylang
Vanille
Rose

cedarwood
Amber
Sandalwood
Patchouli
musk

Cuir Fetiche translates to Fetish Leather and it’s the Maitre Parfumeur Et Gantier that I picked up in their store in Paris. I rarely buy things on just a first impression in a store, but I couldn’t resist the opportunity. This is the old bottle design, which was 50% discounted (I only ended up paying €57/100ml). And lucky me, I definitely chose a great one.

Cuir Fetiche opens with a hint of skank. It’s not a strong leather scent; instead it has some acidity from citrus, combined with powder and florals. I’m surprised heliotrope isn’t listed, because I get a babypowder opening. It’s ever so slightly pissy in a way civet-florals can be. It’s subtle though and within the first hour, the acidity fades and makes way for more sweetness and more iris.

Whilst I definitely get jasmine from the opening, iris seems to be the main player for a good chunk of the wear for me. Starting as talcum powder, it grows more into what I’d call a rice-pudding-iris. The vanilla comes through and there’s more musk and woods in the back. The floral tinge remains and the leather is ever so slightly noticeable throughout. Which is to say; it is there for sure, but it might not be as strong of a leather scent as the name of the fragrance might suggest.

The fetish part of the name doesn’t feel justified either. With iris being super prominent, this feels like a soft, supple leather handbag. Aside from the hint of skank in the initial hour, this feels like one of the more sophisticated and versatile leather scents I know and I’d wear it to any occasion.

I’m absolutely enamored by Cuir Fetische and glad that I pulled the trigger when I had the chance