AREEJ LE DORE
CUIR DE RUSSIE

2020

PERFUMER
Russian Adam

Vintage Birch Tar (1920-1930)

Vintage Violet Attar (1930)
Blue Lotus
Rose
Jasmine

Beaver Tail Oil
Deer Musk
Crude Amber Oil

Do you wear fragrance on clothes? I actually never do, but in this case, I had to. Cuir de Russie is a garment parfum, not meant to be worn on skin due to the use of birch tar from 1920-1930. So I sprayed this around the house and on a leather bag to give it a try.

Labeled by the brand as a hugely animalic, floriental leather, I think it leaned more on the florals than I’d expected. You definitely get the deer musk, but straight from the opening, you get punchy, sharp florals. I think its mainly violet (attar from 1930) that steals the spotlight.

It’s a bit acidic, although I don’t consider is ‘pissy’ at all, as some have suggested. There’s definitely some skankiness going on, especially when I sprayed it on leather. I’m not too familiar with blue lotus, but aside from that and the violet, it also features jasmine and rose, so it’s quite the floral affair. At first it feels like a very cold and dry fragrance, although not too powdery. As it dries down (and it lasts forever), it warms up and becomes sweeter and easier on the nose. I don’t think it’s a smooth comforting leather and not a tough guy, leather jacket leather either.

When I smell this, I picture opulence, fur coats, expensive handbags and crystal chandeliers, ‘worn’ by a slightly intimidating, mature…woman? I think it’s unisex, but I’ve seen most people describe this as a clear masculine scent; I don’t think I agree.

I like this a lot better than I’d imagined, even though it’s not a style that I would usually seek out. Cuir De Russie is hugely animalic, but not as daring as I was afraid of. Out of Areej’ 6th collection, this might be the most vintage smelling one to my nose though.