LES INDEMODABLES
CUIR DE CHINE

2016

PERFUMER
Florence Fouillet Dubois

Chinese Osmanthus Grand Cru
Egyptian Jasmine Absolute Grand Cru
Chinese Osmanthus Absolute
Turkish Mild Tobacco Absolute
Clary Sage oil from the Alps

I’m not the biggest fan of strong leather scents, so Cuir de Chine was never going to be my favorite Les Indemodables. That being said, leather lovers should pay attention.

Osmanthus is a note that I can appreciate when it’s more on the fruity, floral or sweet side, but here it’s unmistakable leather straight from the opening. It is very smooth and the quality (as with all the Les Indemodables) speaks for itself, but the style of leather isn’t for me.

There’s a green floral tinge, but only ever so slightly and to my nose Cuir de Chine smells like a really nice and polished pair of leather shoes.

As it dries the (almost watery) fruitiness from the osmanthus (peach-like) does come through more for me, rounding off that smooth black leather. I’ve read a lot about the tobacco in this, but for me it’s not a main player on my first impression. As with most tobacco and leather combinations, the latter (pun intended) dominates, with the tobacco leaving a tinge in the later drydown.

It’s actually beautiful and arguably one of the best leathers in this direction that I’ve ever smelled. Performance isn’t great for a leather, but I think that works in it’s favor here, by keeping it more subtle and versatile. During my wearing I kept bouncing back and forth between ‘this is so sophisticated and it smells awesome’ and ‘it’s too leather centric for my taste, so I probably wouldn’t end up wearing it much’.