MATIERE PREMIERE
CRYSTAL SAFFRON

2022

PERFUMER
Aurelien Guichard

Musk

Saffron

Ambroxan
Incense

‘INITIAL IDEA: « The comfortable brightness of saffron ».
MAIN INGREDIENT: Saffron Oil Greece.
CREATIVE APPROACH: Habanolide Musk amplifies the contemporary, genderless character and aura of saffron. Ambroxan underlines its comfortable, almost addictive facet. Incense Oil Somalia both accentuates the vibrancy and projection of saffron, and brings texture to the fragrance.’ – Matiere Premiere

I like most of the offerings from the house; the only one so far that I didn’t enjoy was Oud Seven, but I’m afraid that Crystal Saffron is joining those ranks.

While not an unpleasant scent or wearing experience, I knew instantly that I wouldn’t love Crystal Saffron. I heard many things about how different it is, but ultimately, this is still a very distinct saffron scent to my nose.

Not for a lack of trying; Crystal Saffron tries to steer the fragrance away from ‘yet another saffron leathery scent’, with a hefty ambrox-esque dose, but it cannot overpower the saffron to my nose. Up close, I get more of the sweeter molecular tinge that reminds me a lof of Quentin Bisch’ work (especially Bois Imperial; not so much the way more complex Ganymede that other reviewers have likened it to; the 2024 Crystal Saffron Extrait does remind me of Ganymede), but it’s hidden inside a shoe store with a large assortiment of polished leather work boots.

The leathery saffron actually made me think back to Oud Seven (although I much prefer Crystal Saffron), so it’s not a surprise that those are the two that didn’t work out for me. Crystal Saffron also reminds me of yesteryear’s sports flankers with a slightly greenish, fresh lockerroom aura. In this way it reminded me a bit of Acqua Di Parma Colonia Oud, but modernized.

As negative as that may sound; I can absolutely see this being a great fragrance for a certain crowd. To me, this smells nothing like Baccarat Rouge 540, because it lacks the cloying sugary quality, but there is something in it that places them in the same realm feeling-wise and I think they could appeal to the same people or perhaps a more male targeted variant of it (and we all know how popular BR540 is).

Sidenote: In 2024, Matiere Premiere released Crystal Saffron Extrait, which I prefer.