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      CRYSTAL SAFFRON EXTRAIT (2024) • MATIERE PREMIERE🔺, ScentAdvice

      MATIERE PREMIERE
      CRYSTAL SAFFRON EXTRAIT

      2024

      PERFUMER
      Aurelien Guichard


      saffron
      myrrh

      An extrait flanker to Crystal Saffron EDP (2022). Part of the first 5 Matiere Premiere Extraits: Santal Austal, Radical Rose, Crystal Saffron, Falcon Leather & Encens Suave.
      ‘One common creative approach for all the Extraits de Parfum:
      – a higher perfume concentration
      – a higher dosage of the central main ingredient
      – the addition of a guest ingredient to bring a new facet to the note’ – Matiere Premiere
      ‘Myrrh is a textured note, often used to bring an ambery aspect to compositions. I see myrrh as a luminous black color. It brings a round richness to the radiant, vibrant aspects of Crystal Saffron.’ – Aurelien Guichard

      CRYSTAL SAFFRON EXTRAIT (2024) • MATIERE PREMIERE🔺, ScentAdvice


      CRYSTAL SAFFRON EXTRAIT (2024) • MATIERE PREMIERE🔺, ScentAdvice

      Crystal Saffron was not my favorite of the Matiere Premiere EDP collection. Which in a sense gives it the Extrait an advantage, because it’s hard to convince an upgrade over something that I already enjoyed (see my Radical Rose Extrait review). With Crystal Saffron, there’s much to improve for my taste and you know what, the Extrait does just that. That being said, it still doesn’t wow me and definitely not in this price range.

      I’m very curious to see how people that already loved the EDP will perceive the Extrait. The EDP was notoriously loud and big, whereas I think the Extrait is more subtle. I think the scent profile hasn’t changed all that much; you still get the rubber glove style saffron that reminds me of a dentists office (and Oud Seven). You still get reminded of something in between Bisch’ Bois Imperial and Ganymede (scent-wise, more like a watered down Ganymede).

      The main difference I get with Crystal Saffron is that the Extrait has less texture and probably more sweetness (haven’t tried them side by side). It gets smoother due to the oil concentration and essentially smells like the scent of sweet spices and leather, without any of its textures. It’s like wearing air. Myrrh being the added note doesn’t jump out at me at all, but I can see how it adds to the smoothness and the sweetness. It seems to me so far that smoother and sweeter is the main theme of these Matiere Premiere Extraits. In this case the slightly greener tinge that I got on the back-end of the EDP is replaced by sweetness and the leather remains prominent.

      In the case of Crystal Saffron, smoother works for me. It’s pleasant, but definitely not among any of my favorites in this ‘Bisch’ molecular style perfumery.


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