
ENSAR OUD
Crime & Punishment: VD Rose
2024
Buy Crime & Punishment: VD ROSE here
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kanbojiago musuku cambodian oud
japanese rose
frankincense
ylang-ylang
orange blossom
blue lotus
tonkin musk
ambergris
mimosa
jasmine
musk
sandalwood
‘Many people are wondering about a one-off semi-B we offered some time ago, called “VD Raspberry”, which was a playful, raspberrified edition of Crime & Punishment.
Crime & Punishment itself is an extremely elaborate composition, so the idea to flesh it out a bit more in VD Raspberry was exciting but also challenging. People love C&P for so many reasons, so it’s difficult to decide which facet to explore. With this edition, though – it was easy.
VD Rasberry was built on an edition of C&P that had a lush sandalwood veneer; an edition many loved the most. You may be familiar with rose-oud perfumes, but what about rose-sandalwood? Imagine the complex, ever-unfolding scent of Crime & Punishment where the sandalwood facet is tuned up just high enough for it to stand out. And to then beautify that facet with the only rose duo of its kind that I know of…
This [extremely] limited edition features my in-house blend of Japanese rose absolute and otto, which were extracted specifically for us. It’s not only what the addition of the rose does to the overall profile, but also to the overall diffusiveness of each spritz.
I could have stopped here and called it a day. But that’s the fine line between making something to sell, and making something in order to make history. That’s why you’re getting this rosified santalum C&P turned into a regal, decked-out oud-rose symphony. (I’ll let the fact that by doing so this perfume qualifies as a bonafide ghalia sink in for a minute.) Oud-musk symphony how?
First, I didn’t mention that my in-house Japanese rose duet is added on top of an increased concentration of the previous editions of C&P’s. And so is this oud…This is the first time I’m using or talking about this extremely precious oud. You may remember the insane musk-infused Vietnamese oud that gave Notes From Underground its distinct (and polarizing!) profile…
Kanbojiago Musuku is that oud, reincarnated in Cambodi form. That it was distilled in our custom-distillery in Cambodia exclusively from a specific strand of oud chips collected from jungles in Pursat, Pailin, and Koh Kong over many months should tell you about the quality we’re talking about. But then we took things even further.
Along with its brother distillation, this brew has been steeping in super old Tonkin musk grains for… I’m not exactly sure anymore – it’s been a few years. I chose this oud specifically for its red old-school Cambodi profile, which has turned redder ten times over because of the musk infusion, which, in addition to the added diffusiveness of the extra rose, also adds projection and lift to the perfume because each bottle contains a full 3 grams of Kanbojiago Musuku!
With the increased concentration based on the original C&P, 3 grams of Japanese rose duet and another full 3gr bottle of Kanbojiago Musuku, VD Rose comes in heavy at ±45% concentration. (So, perhaps I should include an applicator because it’s that dense!)
Japanese rugosa fused with frankincense and ylang-ylang that boasts the added umami of orange blossom’s thick zest rubbed into a paste of blue lotus’ buttery warmth, all riding a chariot of Cambodian oud, Tonkin musk, and ambergris. Ylang ylang mingled with mimosa, rose and jasmine all vape through a prism of the strong shot oud and musk to form a steady tone that lasts for hours. And all of it comes decked out onto a bed dripping wet with creamy sandalwood. VD Rose gives you a rose-santalum amber-musk brew with a fat lacquering of OUD oozing into its creamy core to make the sandalwood facets of the perfume even more delectable.’- Ensar Oud