MILES WAMBAUGH
COUP D’ETAT
2019
PERFUMER
Dominique Ropion
Jean-Louis Sieuzac
lavandin
cardamom
iris
geranium
patchouli
cypriol
vanilla
‘COUP D’ETAT, the name is as sharp as what it conveys. Brute force, intensity, strength, identity. In order to interpret this « coup d’Etat » one cannot help but think of rebellion and inverted order, this is achieved through the choice of contrasting fragrances evoking both strength and softness. The outset is potent and vibrant, revealed by notes of lavendin topped with cardamom, a fresh spice that lends itself to blending. For strength and thematic character a mellow iris, distinct, particular with a rose-like imperious geranium. The trail is present, smooth, round, slightly feral with spicy notes of vanilla, patchouli and the woody and leathery undertones of cypriol. This perfume morefully reveals motion and realism when shot, like a bullet, from its weapon-like flask. Outburst of images, range of emotio’ – Miles Wambaugh
Miles Wambaugh fragrances didn’t get on my radar until 2024 and I was kind of surprised that I hadn’t heard of them prior. Given that all fragrances were made by Dominique Ropion & Jean-Louis Sieuzac and the notes look pretty good (using a lot of the IFF LMR naturals). I set out to explore.
The first one that I wanted to get my nose on as an iris-lover was Coup D’Etat and it makes a pretty good first impression.
Now, this is very heavy on the cardamom to me in the opening hour(s). I’ve seen cardamom listed in most of the brand’s fragrances, so perhaps it’s a through-line of sorts. Here, the cardamom adds a sharp and refreshing blast, alongside lavendin. It definitely opened up more aromatic and spicy than I’d prefered, but this changes up quickly.
The iris starts pushing through, but more so, the vanilla comes into play after the initial sharpness and brightness tapers off. And that combination of vanilla, iris and cardamom is truly well-done and comforting. There is a hint of suede to my nose as well.
Coup D’Etat reminds me most of BDK Gris Charnel, but it feels less demanding to wear; a bit fresher, a bit more room to breathe, a bit less sweet and of higher quality that you notice mainly in the way the sweetness comes across.
I look forward to getting my nose on more Miles Wambaugh in the future.