LES INDEMODABLES
CHYPRE AZURAL
2016
PERFUMER
Florence Fouillet Dubois
Siciian Tarocco Orange
Indonesian (Aceh Province) Patchouli Oil Grand Cru
Amber Infusion
Egyptian Centifolia Rose Absolute Grand Cru
Tarragon Oil from the Alps
Orange is listed and it’s very strongly represented in the opening. It’s juicy and very fruity, with a lot of acidity, but there’s also the instant addition of a warmer, greener and earthier undercurrent.
It smells very natural and it has that citrussy bitterness (more so than the citrus in Iris Perle or Musc Des Sables). There’s a green aromatic tinge, but the orange is strong enough to keep it at bay.
Where I enjoyed Chypre Azural the most on first impression is when I ‘went looking’ for the rose. The rose isn’t pronounced; it’s not a rose-patch akin to Portrait Of A Lady; a more apt comparison would be the rose-citrus combination in Guerlain Habit Rouge as some people have pointed out. You have to look for it though and I would be inclined to label this is a citrus scent.
More importantly, as it dries it transforms at one point, where it gets very musky to my nose, in the same direction a Musk Cologne or Amber Cologne by Bortnikoff goes. I actually think it becomes slightly daring to wear in the drydown for me personally. That being said, it remains very citrussy throughout.