HERMES
Caleche EDT

1961

PERFUMER
Guy Robert

aldehydes
cypress
mandarin
neroli
bergamot
orange blossom
lemon

iris
lily-of-the-valley
gardenia
jasmine
rose
ylang-ylang

oakmoss
sandalwood
amber
cedarwood
musk
tonka bean
vetiver

Sampled from a vintage (no idea how old) sample that I assume is the EDT concentration.

To me, Caleche opens very green, with an interesting (albeit it not my favorite) kind of twist. The twist I refer to is fruity I guess, maybe vegetal a bit. It reminds me of the slick outside of a paprika or bell pepper.

Perhaps it’s the rooty quality of iris, mixed with the fruits and florals. Either way, it makes for a distinct scent that lasts throughout the opening of the wear. It has a strong shampoo-like quality for me as well.

Clearly the aldehydic nature mimics the style of Chanel No. 5 (and others) a bit, but I don’t think they’re necessarily similar overall.

The moment the woodiness and smoothness from the base gets introduced, Caleche starts to veer into ‘likeable’ territory for me. I remember smelling a more modern bottle of Caleche in store and that seemed more spicy and woody than this greener take from the vintage sample, but I have a feeling it will also miss the smoothness and almost creaminess that this version has in the base.

Definitely not a fragrance that I enjoy personally, especially in the opening. although there is something intriguing about it.