DIPTYQUE
Les Essences – Bois Corse
2024
PERFUMER
Natalie Gracia-Cetto
Olivier Pescheux
sandalwood
tonka bean
coffee absolute
‘Bois Corsé evokes the textured outer layer of a tree. A combination of intense black coffee absolute and essence of sandalwood, with tonka bean blended in. A fragrance with a lingering sillage, its name a play on words: “écorce” is French for “bark”, “corsé” means “full-bodied” – like the coffee aroma celebrated here. The bottle is decorated with fine black lines inspired by the reliefs found in bark. The irregular forms on the sleeve evoke the texture of wood, its shape evolving with the passage of time.’ – Diptyque
To get straight into it; I had pretty high expectations for this ‘premium’ Les Essences line and Bois Corse especially. And this one delivered. I think it’s up there with my favorite samples of 2024 so far and a potential wishlist item.
That’s not to say that it’s the most unique or mind-boggling fragrance that has come out, but it’s a scent-profile that I love and it’s executed really nicely. Diptyque is usually on point, but not often has the brand matched my personal taste as much as with Bois Corse.
It opens with what I perceive to be dark chocolate. Bitter, nutty, sweet, but not sugary or milky. It turns into a more bitter coffee. And ultimately, mostly a woody fragrance. I don’t detect much as far as notes other than those facets, besides maybe saffron? They aren’t listed either, but often you get different things from a fragrance. Here I get practically no brightness, no citrus, not florals, not even distinct spices. It’s pretty simple and my only complaint would be that I think Bois Corse could get a bit boring due to how linear it wears. However, as long as you don’t wear it every day, but as part of a bigger collection, that isn’t a big issue, at least, not for me.
The mix here is excellent. Not too sweet, but you keep that coffee/dark chocolate tinge, quite nutty. More woody than gourmand for most of the wear to me however. The scent profile I think it most closely resembles from memory is Teo Cabanel Oh La La, but Bois Corse simultaneously wears smoother and darker. More mature. As it dries, I can picture tobacco here too instead of wood and as mentioned, I do get something of a saffron scent that creeps in. I reapplied Bois Corse after the first wearing before going to bed and I definitely felt like some suede-saffron tinge was more noticeable that time. I’ll have to wear it more to see whether or not that checks out.
I think people that like Akro Awake, Kerosene Follow & Strangers Parfumerie SM Cafe will also find something they like here and perhaps even something akin to Van Cleef & Arpels Bois Dore. But the Diptyque may be less sweet and more understated; it feels classy and well-constructed. Almost powdery, but it’s not a weak or light fragrance.
My first dive into this 2024 Diptyque collection and a great success. Unfortunately, this line is higher priced (albeit still reasonable compared to many other niche brands). I’ll keep it on my radar for a potential future purchase.