EX NIHILO
Blue Talisman
2023
PERFUMER
Jordi Fernandez
bergamot
ginger
mandarin
pear
orange blossom
georgywood
akigalawood
musks
ambrofix
‘Blue Talisman by Ex Nihilo, is a mesmerizing blend of engaging sensations, a creation that was born to celebrate 10 years of Ex Nihilo, and to be remembered the best raw materials in the world have been selected. Designed as a hypnotic jewel, BLUE TALISMAN encapsulates the best of EX NIHILO’s know-how as an olfactory statement. A cutting edge fragrance symbol of an infinite spiritual energy expressed by the subtle freshness of Ginger soften by abstract Musky and Ambery notes. This creation embodies the vanguard and singular spirit of the House through bewitching and numerous facets.’ – Ex Nihilo
Ex Nihilo is a house that so far, I’ve enjoyed, but I found all the ones that I sampled and liked to be much more geared towards women. Blue Talisman ended up following that expectation, especially in the drydown. It would be one that I’d enjoy wearing, perhaps even the first Ex Nihilo that I’d pick so far (mind you, there’s a lot that I haven’t tried yet), but for me, this one is all about the opening.
An extremely juicy opening. Not necessarily natural smelling, but great smelling fruitiness. Sort of similar surprising vivacious quality to it as in Maison Crivelli Oud Maracuja (same perfumer). Jordi seems to have nailed this type of fruity opening blast. I really enjoyed this facet.
In this case, I get citrus and pear. Ginger is underneath, but this fragrance isn’t as tart as many ginger fragrances are. It’s also not too sharp, but rather soft and ‘liquid’, just very juicy.
You get an orange blossom floral coming through, but it’s not overly floral straight away; it slowly builds. That being said, I can picture some connection to Gold Immortals. After at least an hour in, it feels more floral than I’d anticipated and while quite nice, I was already missing the opening.
As it progresses, this has that sweet + fruity + floral + soft combination that says ‘women’s marketed designer‘ in my experience, but done really well. It’s been compared to Amouage Guidance, but I much prefer this Ex Nihilo; I do get that they’ll likely appeal to the same audience. I feel that Blue Talisman is a bit more clean and citrussy; almost like a mix of that style (or some of Ex Nihilo’s own) and the slightly more clinical musky citrusses from Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
At least, for the first part of the wear. I think Blue Talisman warms up quite a bit. Like an inviting floral-fruity-musk cocktail. Quite elegant, but also quite sweet and playful.
The citrus has some longevity, keeping the sweetness in check. It also helps that it’s airy, like a light breeze that’s very easy to wear; if it was thicker, I’d probably find it too cloying. On the other hand, many have remarked on a weak performance. I only tested it once and I had no issues, but given that it’s a fresher scent, performance isn’t a big selling point to be sure.
A nice release, albeit not the most exciting and I’d much prefer this on a woman myself.