BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS
BLUE SAPPHIRE
2013
PERFUMER
Christian Provenzano
Lemon
Chamomile
Sage
Tagetes
Saffron
Rose
Jasmine
Magnolia
Oud
Patchouli
Amber
After smelling perhaps 2 dozen Boadicea anno 2024, Blue Sapphire is still my favorite from the brand, by quite a margin.
First of all, Blue Sapphire is a chameleon. It’s citrussy, animalic, floral, woody, herbal, sweet, green, mineral, a whole array of elements that are noticeable throughout the wear. It’s one of the most hyped (and most expensive fragrances) and it has lived on my wishlist for the better part of my fragrance journey.
It opens with a sweet, candy-like citrus, some herbs (chamomile, sage) and a bright rose. The rose itself doesn’t feel too candied, but it’s slightly sweet and fresh. I picture a white or light pink rose and it’s liquid or even transparent, not powdery.
The oud seems to be detectable for a couple of minutes at first, with it coming back to carry the scent in the drydown. It has a kind of animalic heat to it, but it’s also sour, making it an unusual take on a daring fragrance.
After those initial minutes you’re hit with a blast of a greener, but fresh tinge and to my nose it comes off as mineral, maybe even salty. I’ve heard people say it has an aquatic touch and of course it has Blue in the name, but for me it’s more like the green mineral citrus of a Strangers Green Salted Mango. Although it’s not as green as the often compared Electimuss Auster to me.
Lurking in the background beneath all of this is a darker woody scent, a bit smokey. I don’t get the warmth or resinous touches of the amber accord, but I do get earthy patchouli. As it dries down, the patchouli and oud are prominent, joined by the rose for a more common rose-oud style drydown.
I have to say this is one of the nicer openings that I’ve come across and that lasts long enough. In the later drydown, it loses some of it’s magic. It’s still nice, but not as interesting as the opening, the lemon and mineral-like touches add a lot. It does last a full day and from start to finish it projects a lot.
Blue Sapphire retailed for €650/100ml when I reviewed it, so that’s always hard to justif. At the same time, Blue Sapphire does all it can do justify the premium; unique enough, high quality, great presentation, great performance. Worth the hype.